Color On Pro

Color on Pro Says: The application is so easy. Simply peel back the applicator from the card, and center the pad on closed eyelid. Hold in place at each corner of the eye, making a “peace sign,” and gently rub the back of the applicator with the index finger of your free hand. Remove and dispose. Lightly dust with setting powder provided. This will make the formula waterproof, and give the shadow a soft matte finish. Instructions are also on the back of each box, or view a demonstration video at http://www.coloronpro.com/

In The Makeup Says: We tested the EyeEnvy Exotic Kit – which comes with zebra, military camouflage, and leopard print appliques. Different than our usual genre of beauty, we know. But we stayed in that night, took care of our skin by dining on Omega 3s (we live on beauty food), remained faithful to antioxidants (i.e. sipped red wine), and tested these controversial appliques. Tasteful or not, they do, we repeat, do work. Press, pat, and peel. To wear or not to wear? If the right invitation comes along (say, an avant-garde party) well then, of course.

Limitless Lashes

Mirabella is launching a new lash collection, which will be available in select salons this February. The collection will include lash primer, lash therapy, and a mascara that Mirabella says will create super-thick dramatic lashes without smudging, smearing, or clumping in a light-weight, quick drying formula that takes advantage of microbead technology to optimize thickening and length. Mirabella also says that it will remove easily with eye makeup remover or gentle cleanser. Plus, the company will be offering a limited edition heated eyelash curler.

In The Makeup Says: We can’t review it, because it doesn’t exist yet. But, we do have an insider tip-off. Allure magazine will be offering a free collection to the first 500 entries. Look for the offer in January!

Spring/Summer 2009: Cliff Notes

PARIS: STILL BARE
Enhancing beauty rather than creating a makeup look continued in Paris. Think fuller brushed-up brows, curled lashes, luminous cheeks and tenderly bare lips. In Paris, its all about turning up the volume on the beauty that’s already there. Just don’t presume the products were so minimal: from primers to a plethora of skin-twin shades, this is nature worked to the max.

MILAN: BACK TO VAMP
Of course we had black eyes and diva-ishly intense shadows in Milan. Where would labels like DSquared2 and Just Cavalli be without a direct nod to womanliness in all her pumped-up glory? An imperfect touch is still key. Pressed in smudgy eyeliners with your finger “to dirty it up a bit.” Also, think “sexy, Kate Moss, rock’n’roll” extended liner. But don’t go strictly black. There were also intense deep golds.

LONDON: GROOMED
Gorgeously prepped skin, subtle highlights, drop-dead cheekbones and nuanced tones pulled together for a distinctly groomed moment in makeup. Think neutrally soft and sensual expensive girl. Channel the outdoorsy Ralph Lauren woman or Beverley Hills 90210 – fresh, young, rich and groomed.” And go ahead, reek of perfume; just make sure it smells expensive.

NEW YORK: A FINE MESS
Free yourself from precise eyeliner. A purposefully messy element to makeup was clearly preferred. Eye makeup didn’t go down the runway retro-perfected and neat. It was more smudged (aka modern). Artist Charlotte Tilbury said of MAC Smolder Eye Kohl (which was used at tons of shows) that “it’s meant to be a mess – it’s lived-in, effortlessly cool, smudged, rock n’ roll.” Sexed-up traces of black kohl, Botticelli-inspired smoky, blackened silver lids, or….maybe a dusky plum for daytime.

Olay Professional Pro-X

Olay’s newest range, Olay Professional-Pro-X, is scheduled to hit select mass market outlets at the end of December, with national roll-out planned for January. Packaged in clinical-looking, bright red- and-white boxes, Olay Professional looks to be the high-end consumers’ skin care solution accessible in a drugstore.

Olay Professional consists of six items, each priced at around $42. Three of the six are termed the “hard hitters,” which are the primary skin care solutions in the line; they are the Age Repair Lotion with SPF 30, Hydra Firming Cream and Wrinkle Smoothing Cream. The other three items are meant to target acute anti-aging needs and include Deep Wrinkle Treatment, Discoloration Fighting Concentrate and Eye Restoration Complex.

A Starter Protocol will sell for $62 and include half sizes of the Age Repair Lotion SPF 30, the Wrinkle Smoothing Cream and the Eye Restoration Complex. Except for the discoloring concentrate, all of the items utilize a new proprietary peptide, Pal-KT — a newer proposition than what is found in Olay Regenerist. According to Dr. Rosemarie Osborne, a principal scientist at P&G Beauty, Pal-KT increases not just hydration but builds collagen and elastin. The firming cream includes hexamidine, which is said to increase lipids in the surface barrier of the skin.

In The Makeup Says: It may seem far-fetched to shop for $42 youth-elixirs at the drugstore. After all, isn’t CVS where we go when we’ve just spent the family fortune on a new pair of Christian Loubutons and then find out that we are completely out of La Mer? Not anymore. Today, the line in the sand is being re-drawn. The infamous Nadine Habosh (aka Jolie) declares that “when you buy a $75 moisturizer, more than half of what you’re paying for is prestige.” We’re not suggesting that anyone become a drugstore-beauty captive. We’re promoting savviness. Unless you’re blessed with more money that God, savvy shopping is a beauty commandment. Who wants to live on egg noodles in their retirement? In The Makeup would much rather walk a smart line between department and drugstore. And if Olay’s scientists, who did, after all, bring us the Regenerist line, can compete with La Mer scientists, then Olay Pro X will not only earn the right to sit on our vanities, but will earn our reverence as well.

Sharon Dowsett

Sharon Dowsett is one of Europe’s leading freelance makeup artists. Her credits include shows for Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Issey Miyake and Roland Mouret; Vogue, Harpers, Bazaar and W magazines; Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Guerlain, Lancôme, Garnier, Hugo Boss and D&G ad campaigns; and celebrities including Hilary Swank, Renee Zellweger, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Sophie Dahl, Kate Moss.

Sharon’s portfolio can be viewed at www.clmuk.com

Q&A

What is in your kit?

Some of my faves are: C- Thru Lipglass, Crushed Bougainvillea Cream Color
Base, Auto de Blu Amethyst Technakohl Liner and Mink Brow Set… but I
never go anywhere without Pro Lash Mascara in Coal Black, (usually at
least two new tubes) and I carry Medium Blot Powder on my person the whole
time. Smolder Kohl Pencil is a must and I’d be lost without my Face & Body
Mixing Medium. I suppose I’d need Gloss, Lip Conditioner, Lip Mix
(Scarlet) or Lip Pencil (Spice) to actually do a whole makeup, but the
choice would depend on the situation.

How do you plan your designs and become inspired?

Talk to the team or ask for a brief beforehand.
Consult thesaurus with description and reference (if any).
Visit art galleries and beautiful places on a regular basis.
Observe the everyday and mundane for color, texture, shape and
combinations. Look for original and relevant prompts.
Ensure kit is sorted! Preparation allows the process to evolve naturally
and creativity can happen spontaneously.
Design happens on the day as dependent on the face and what else is going on.

When did you become interested in makeup?

When I was six… My Mum actually let me wear it to school. I remember
that the teachers weren’t too happy but my Mum was my makeup hero. I loved
those bright blue and green eye shadows that she wore from lash to brow.
She still inspires me.

What was your most challenging job?

Doing the Ungaro show and collaborating on a collection at the same time!
Backstage at shows you have to focus on fast application and think ahead
whilst being interviewed, so your attention is split. Added to which, I
put myself under pressure to create a make-up look that the designer
Esteban would love, and that may have a future in product form (in 60
countries!). Fortunately everyone at M.A.C Product Development knows what
they’re doing and were incredibly encouraging and calm. Gordon Espinet and
the Pro Team were also supportive and hardworking, giving input and
feedback along the way.
In any case, I find the most challenging jobs are always the most rewarding!

Do you have any words of Wisdom?

“What we hope to do with ease we must learn first to do with diligence” Dr
Samuel Johnson.
Fingers need limbering up and messages from the brain take a while to get
through.
Practice really does make perfect.
Be yourself but be professional.

For Art’s Sake!

“It’s not makeup, it’s mood” – Terry Barber

FACE
Foundation – Face and Body
Concealer – Studio Stick Concealer SPF 15

EYES
Brow Highlight – Sweetness Powder Blush
Eyelid – White Cream Colour Base
Crease – Full Fucshia Powder Blush
Liner – Orange Eye Shadow
Mascara – Plushblack Plushlash

CHEEKS
Powder – Mineralize Foundation/Loose
Blush – Orange Eye Shadow

LIPS
Lipstick – Nude Cream Colour Base

In The Makeup Says: Thou shalt not copy this look. Thou shalt use your advanced degree in beauty and take this look from Runway to Realway. Perhaps one evening you’ll refuse taupe eyeshadow and dip a pony brush into color? Toss the gloss and paint your lips? Ban your summer bronzer and blush again? In The Makeup is inspired by orange eye shadow on cheeks and fuschia blush on lids; but we never take such works of art too literally, and neither should you - lest you wind up on someone’s worst made-up list.

24 Karat Gold Dust Powder

Jane Iredale Says: This feathery soft loose powder truly meets the gold standard—it contains flecks of real 24-K gold that twinkle on skin, leaving behind a gorgeous candlelit glow. The rose hue, the latest addition to the Fall color collection, adds to the romance, beckoning a heat-of-the-moment flush that flatters every skin tone. We love the versatility of this product: mix with moisturizer and smooth on your décolleté, shoulders and legs to create a subtle body shimmer, add to hair styling aids to impart shine, swipe on lids to make eye color pop or apply on the apples of cheeks for a warm bronzed finish.

In The Makeup Says: Cleopatra slept in a gold mask every night for youthful skin, the Queen of the Ching Dynasty had gold rolled on her face everyday, and luxury spas around the world have been offering pure gold facials since Japan introduced them in May 2007. Gold-based facials started at 20,000 yen ($170) and are now available in the United States starting at $175.

While we respect gold facials, any reasonable girl should have a pot of Jane’s $12 gold powder. Facials, after all, are not makeup. Plus, you can mix it into your creams and lotions in between gold facials. We’re just sorry Jane hasnt mentioned how to take a hot bath with this stuff!

Project Beauty

On-screen makeover

‘Project Beauty’ is a game designed for the Nintendo DS with the help of  Shiseido

A scanning device transfers digital images of your face onto one of the two screens.

Facial features such as your eyes and lips are analysed, and colors and products are suggested. Then, an image replete with suggested makeover ideas is displayed on the console’s second screen.

Project Beauty can suggest makeup for different occasions from the office to a hot party. You can also create your own makeovers choosing shades from the software’s virtual palette.

You’ll be able to test out looks and colors without having to physically apply (or buy!) any of the products.

Project Beauty is scheduled for release on November 27th in Japan for 6,090 yen ($55.00)

In The Makeup Says: Sounds like an activity worth trying. Certainly if you are bored it would be much better to play this game than to….um…..lets say eat or call your ex boyfriend. We also think it makes perfect sense for girls with gamer boyfriends to suggest this as a game you might be into. But, lets be realistic. How could software tell you if you’ll like the way a product smells (and this is important as even mascaras are scented these days), if it will spread nicely on your priceless skin, or how well it will last. We’ll put it on our shopping list but we think makeupalley, regular browsing at Sephora, and glossy magazines still reign.

Marilyn’s Pout

What You’ll Need:

• Foundation
• Silicone-based makeup primer
• Matte white makeup pencil
• Translucent powder
• Pointy concealer brush
• Highlighter
• Creamy lip liner in true red
• Opaque true red lipstick
• Lighter red lipstick
• Clear lip gloss

4 STEPS:

Begin with a clean base. Cover lips with a foundation that matches your skin tone. This gives you a blank canvas to create Marilyn-style lips with. Prep lips for color by dabbing a silicone-based makeup primer on entire lip line.

Use a pointy concealer brush to outline the bow of your lips with a highlighter. Smudge with your finger for a natural-looking sheen that catches the light. Outline lips with creamy lip liner in true red. Focus on bringing out the shape of the bow of your lips. Fill outlined lips in with the pencil.

Stroke opaque true red lipstick on the outer edges of both top and bottom lips using a lip brush. In the center of both lips, brush on a lighter red. Using a lighter shade in the center adds dimension to lips. (Rumor is that Marilyn used Guerlain Rouge Diabolique (now discontinued). Guerlain Kiss Kiss Lipstick, in Insolence de Rouge, number 522 is a close match.)

Finish with a clear lip gloss dabbed generously in the middle of bottom lip and blended slightly outwards to include top lip. If you want extra shine, use a thick gloss (like MAC lipglass in clear) that gives a vinyl-like finish.

In The Makeup Says: Not wearing these lips at lease once could be something you regret on your deathbed.

Seventease

Lauren Hutton, Margaux Hemingway, Cheryl Tiegs, Jerry Hall….Bianca Jagger.

See the face chart….Get the products

EYES
Brows – Fling Brow Pencil
Brow Highlight – Rice Paper and Nylon Eye Shadows
Eyelid – Woodwinked Eye Shadow
Crease – Copperplate eye Shadow
Liner – Coffee Eye Pencil

Mascara – All Black Fibre Rich Lash

CHEEKS
Blush – Feeling and Eversun Powder Blush, Copperplate Eye Shadow

LIPS
Lipstick – Viva Glam VI Lipstick
Finish – Power Supply Plushglass

In The Makeup Says: We see…high-waisted flared satin trousers, halter tops and catsuits. Hemlines below the knee, one-piece swimwuits in dusty rose, prussian blue, rust, and brown. Designer jeans. Thinly plucked brows. Long Hair, parted in the middle.

Glamodrama

Glam goes Rock with punk-tuated eyes and heady lips.

“Girls that were Goths, gone rich”, Gordon Espinet.

MAC’s Glamodrama

See the face chart… Get the products

EYES
Brow highlight – Copperplate eye Shadow
Eyelid – White Cream Colour Base, Gesso Eye Shadow
Crease – Copperplate Eye Shadow
Liner – Taupe Eye Shadow

CHEEKS

Powder – Studio Fix Plus
Blush – Sculpt Sculpting Powder, Omega Eye Shadow

LIPS

Pencil – Nightmoth Lip Pencil
Lipstick – Black and Burnt Burgundy Paint Sticks
Finish – Clear Lipglass

Pat McGrath

Pat McGrath

From Jil Sander to John Galliano and Stephen Miesel to Helmut Newton, there’s not a name in the beauty business that leading make-up artist – and Max Factor Creative Director - Pat McGrath hasn’t worked with. She spoke to VOGUE.COM backstage at London Fashion Week:

Q: Can you see any key trends emerging for spring/summer 2009?
I don’t know as I always like to come up with mine at the end of Paris [Fashion Week]. But at the moment – from the first two weeks – I can see smoky eyes; they’re not as black as winter but still smoky. There are lots of bronzed, flushed and healthy cheeks, too, and little splashes of colour.
 
Q: How do you reinvent the same looks over and over again for a different season?
I’m influenced a lot by the fabrics that I see, the colours that are in the collections, and the girls’ faces. It’s always a challenge but that’s the key – to make it different every time.
 
Q: How does it feel to be described as the world’s most influential make-up artist?
You know, I don’t ever think about it. I just work, and I do my best! I’m really lucky to work with the people that I work with; I’m always with the best people and I’m fortunate to work with the best teams and all my friends. Edward, Eugene, Guido, Gareth, Stephen – when I’m with all of those people I feel lucky!

Amy Stone, Vogue UK: 29 September 2008, 05:33PM

IN THE MAKEUP THINKS: We’d give up coffee just to have Ms. McGrath put makeup on our faces. Well, maybe we could do decaf.

Devine Sin

DEVINE: Artists focus pigment on the inner mouth for a blurred, bud-like effect. Grape… garnet… ruby… raisin… maroon… fig… licorice… currant… cherry… Baroque… Prussian… Royal… decadent… poisonous…

See the face chart…Get the products…

SKIN
Moisturizer – Studio Moisture Fix
Primer – Prep+Prime Skin

FACE
Foundation – Select Tint SPF 15
Concealer – Moisturecover Select SPF 15

EYES
Brows – Charcoal Brown Eye Shadow
Eyelid – Light Mineralize Skinfinish Natural
Crease – Kid Eye Shadow
Mascara – Pitchblack Pro Longlash

CHEEKS
Powder – Blot Powder/Loose
Blush – Strada Powder Blush

LIPS
Pencil – Nightmoth Lip Pencil
Lipstick – Sin Lipstick
Finish – Clear Lipglass

The Noir Lip

 

While Hollywood is still all about retro reds, lips are getting yet another seductive update this fall – Black, or near black, lips. Since no one could argue that this is easy to pull off in real life, check out Lancôme’s low-pigment black lip glaze slated for release in November. While it looks black in the tube, it goes on sheer. It can also be layered over other lip colors for a black berry effect. Only 500 will be available, and only at Bloomingdale’s on 59th St.

Rumor has it the waitlist is already filling up fast! (If you want it, call 212-705-2886 to reserve yours for $48).

 

The limited-edition gloss debuts as part of a luxe lip set also including Color Fever Lipstick in Piha Red, which is also derived from high fashion – it’s meant to be the same color as a Louboutin sole.

Matching your bag and shoes? Old news. Matching your lip color to the sole of your shoes is more like it.

IN THE MAKEUP THINKS: The neighbors may not understand, but Vogue magazine does. Along with most of London, Paris, and Milan. Dear friends, get the sheer noir lip on your personal gift registries as fast as you can.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The no-makeup Makeup

HONED: “Young and lady, makeup’s new natural is youthful yet refined and inspired by 70’s icons of natural. ‘Honed to the bone,’ “ Val Garland, MAC. “Barely there… as no-makeup takes on the artistry of subtle definement.”

See the face chart….Get the products…

EYES
Brows – Clear Brow Set
Crease – Medium Dark Mineralize Skinfinish Natural, Kid Eye Shadow
Liner – Medium Dark Mineralize Skinfinish Natural

CHEEKS
Blush – Medium Dark Mineralize Skinfinish Natural

LIPS
Lipstick – Fawntastic Cream Colour Base
Finish – Lip Erase

IN THE MAKEUP THINKS: The fashion editor of French ELLE might say “oui.” She has been quoted as saying that non-French women make their makeup too flashy and that “For us, less is more.” So to be subtly dolled up à la française, perhaps you should HONE yourself. Just….add a coat (or two) of mascara. We’re sure it takes the look from runway to realway. And, remember, no one said you can’t still wear high heels.

Maybelline Lash Stiletto

How about a mascara that does for your lashes what stilettos do for your legs? Rumor has it that Maybelline will be launching stilettos for your lashes in January with Lash Stiletto mascara. 
This mascara will be all about length, length, length. It will combine length polymers to stretch the lash, Pro-Vitamin B5 to give a black patent shine, and a crisscross brush designed to grip and extend lashes to allow each to get coated.
“It is not a heavy look, but a sleek, long look,” said Serena Giovi, vice president of marketing, Maybelline New York.

Lash Stiletto will sell for $8.95 and will be available in three shades: Very Black, Soft Black and Brownish Black.

Emanuel Ungaro Fall 2008

PARIS

Less was most definitely more backstage at Emanuel Ungaro Wednesday.

Sharon Dowsett, who was working with MAC Cosmetics, used a plethora of products to create a barely there makeup look.

“I don’t want [the models] to look tired. They should look like it’s the first day of their holidays,” said Dowsett.

FACE: Skin was prepped with MAC moisturizers followed by Fix+. To create a fresh base, Dowsett used a combination of Face and Body, Strobe Liquid and Strobe Cream.

CHEEKS: Blushcreme in Cherche was used on cheeks, followed by Emanuel Ungaro Cream Color Base in Crushed Bougainvillea, which was created for the fashion brand by MAC.

LIPS: A smidgen of Emanuel Ungaro See Thru Lip Color in Not So Shy was applied to the inner part of the lip, while Face and Body and Blushcreme in Cherche were used around the outer edges.

EYES: Eyelids were slicked with a blend of Gloss and Graphito Eye Paint, Eye Kohl in Smolder was dotted along lash lines and lashes were curled before being coated in Pro Lash mascara to create what Dowsett dubbed a “lamp-lit eye.”

Alexander McQueen Fall 2008

PARIS

Makeup for these alien movie “Species” inspired looks were created by Peter Philips for MAC Cosmetics.

Philips prepped faces with skin-sculpting foundation and Prep + Prime loose powder. A hint of Powder Blush in Breath of Plum warmed up cheeks while Lipmix in Burgundy was used on pouts.

“It’s like they have veins or tree roots growing on their faces,” said hair stylist Paul Hanlon, who created the look by snaking tendrils of hair over models’ faces and holding them in place with hair nets. “The nets are used like a mask.”

At the back of the head, hair was pulled into rope-like shapes, reminiscent of wooden heels on some shoes worn on the runway.

Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2008

PARIS

Backstage at Yves Saint Laurent Thursday, makeup was inspired  by  Fellini’s 1963 movie “8 1/2”.

“I didn’t take it as a reference. It’s more of a twist, and Yves Saint Laurent makeup with a twist,” said makeup artist Tom Pecheux.

Eyes stole the show, with eyeliner stretching outward and upward, topped with a row of false lashes.

Pecheux created a matte base using YSL Matt Touch Foundation and Perfect Touch, then topped it with Poudre Sur Measure.

Then he added a hint of blush and contoured slightly using hues from the Palette Collection compact.

Hairstylist Julien d’Ys, meanwhile, did dual-toned coifs for the show and added hair extensions. The back-combed updos were inspired by Simone Signoret and Jeanne Moreau, d’Ys said.

Galliano Fall 2008

PARIS

John Galliano’s gals were a riot of color backstage at his show Saturday.

Makeup artist Pat McGrath created a kaleidoscope of looks inspired by the likes of William Hogarth, James Gillray and Queen Elizabeth’s guards.

McGrath used eyeliner in Nightclubbing, Max Factor 2000 Calorie mascara, and lots of theatrical makeup.

“They’re really gorgeous and fun,” said McGrath, who was working with Max Factor.

October Shopping List

Super O
NARS has amped up their legendary NARS Orgasm with Super Orgasm. Its the same universally flattering sheer peachy pink blush, but with an extra dose of golden sparkle; just enough to make you the center of every room you walk into.

Perfectly measured and finely balanced, the shu uemura 24K Gold Eyelash Curler is designed to ensure superior functionality and performance. The silicone pad in a “mushroom” shape provides a protective, stay-put edge for safety and optimum curl. The patented hinge is specifically engineered to apply the perfect amount of pressure on eyelashes. The calculated shape, size of frame length, and ergonomic handles ensure stability and control, while the curved angle suits all eye shapes.

Givenchy’s Magic Wand

Phenomen’Eyes Mascara grips lashes starting at the roots.

This mascara has a high-tech, patented round sphere at the tip of the wand that reaches every lash and creates a “fanned-out panoramic effect.”

$27.00 Sephora exclusive. Comes in Phenomen’Black and Phenomen’Brown.